France attracts more tourists than any other country in the world. After Paris, most of them come to the vaguely-defined region of Southeastern France known as Provence.
The reason why they come is not superficially obvious. Provence houses none of the world's wonders, either natural or man-made, it has few major historical sites, its beaches by Antipodean standards are humble and - with the loals remaining notoriously impervious to the English tongue - it's not particularly accessible to foreigners.
But the attractions of Provence are nevertheless magnificent and manifold. On a clear day in the mountains, with the herbs beneath your feet, the azure sea shimmering on the horizon and a fresh Cassis blanc de blanc in your belly, Provence is capable of eliciting sensory euphoria in the most dispassionate visitor.
This is no vacuous guidebook spiel. For centuries, the world's pre-eminent artists ahve flocked to Provence, lured by the region's vivid colors and intense contrasts rendered by a uniquely luminescent sunlight. Picasso, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Matisse, Monet and renoir all came here to paint.Van Gogh's Sunflowers depict a Provencal bloom. Cezanne's Le Paysan was a local farmer and it was in Arles that the intoxicating beauty, and doubtlessly no small measure of absinthe, inspired the birth of impressionism.
Taste and smell are satisfied by the herbs that grow wild throughout the hills and where every step releases a heady fragrance of rosemary, sage, marjoram and thyme; the fields of lavender; the rich, earthy wines; the olive oil - which the locals celebrate as others venerate fine wine - and the flavourful, rustic cooking. How good is the food? As struggling artists Picasso and Matisse regularly swapped nascent masterpieces for meals at the Colombe d'Or restaurant in St Paul-de-Vence.
Where to stay in Provence
Hotel le Pigonnet
5 Avenue du Pigonnet
13090 Aix-en-Provence
France
Tel : +33 (0) 4 42 59 02 90
Do drop by the small luxury Hotel le Pigonnet, previously a beloved visiting place of Cezanne at one time, now a small luxury hotel and highly recommended by Frommer's. This pink-sided Provençal mansion on the edge of town is surrounded by it's famous gardens.
The lovely gardens are a wonderful respite from the noise and traffic so common in the rest of the city. The pool is especially tranquil and quiet, with very comfortable lounge chairs and soft luxurious towels.
Many renovations were completed here during 1998. The high-ceilinged bedrooms contain antique and replicas of French provincial furnishings, bordered by elaborate curtains, and emoting a pervasive sense of country elegance. Breakfast is served on a colonnaded veranda overlooking a reflecting pool in the courtyard.
In summer, the in-house restaurant expands outward into the garden, featuring such Provencal dishes as a terrine of house-made foie gras, roasted Provençal lamb in a honey-flavored rosemary sauce, and a roulade of chicken with crawfish in shellfish sauce.
Picturesque Arles boasts intact Roman architecture
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